2018 Domaine Overnoy Chardonnay "Vieilles Vignes"
One of the confusing and intriguing things about Jura wines is the technique of sous-voile, or under-the-veil wine making. The barrels are not entirely filled to begin with, and then are not topped up as the wine evaporates and seeps into the wood. A beneficial layer of yeast (the veil) is encouraged, somewhat akin to the flor in Sherry. In the hands of a good producer, like Overnoy, sous-voile wines are incredibly complex and incredible at the table.
Aged for three years in barrel, the sweet perfumed fruit gives way to nutty, oxidised tones that are intentional and at delicate levels that don’t overwhelm the fruit. The greatest pleasure comes from the palate, which is incredibly complex and downright moreish. Vibrant yet soft in texture, with saline acidity that was perfectly judged at picking time, everything is in harmony. Very long and complex and a superb wine to have at the table!