Weingut Robert Weil “The Jewel of the Rheingau”

Weingut Robert Weil “The Jewel of the Rheingau”

By Tom Brushfield

Weingut Robert Weil “The Jewel of the Rheingau”

Weingut Robert Weil “The Jewel of the Rheingau”

2020 Rheingau Rieslings

An absolute favourite of ours here at Union Cellars, the beautifully distinctive blue label is something that stays in the memory of folks once they try these outstanding wines.

After the much-lauded 2019 vintage, how would Germany fair the 2020 conditions? Well, the proof has landed and wow, what a riot these Weil 2020s are. Respected authority Stuart Piggott “Wilhelm Weil made one of the standout ranges of 2020s, and there are even a couple of wines that top the 2019 vintage.” High praise from a man who knows his rizza! 

The Rheingau is known for its powerful, dry rieslings and the point at which the Rhein river turns west after colliding with the Taunus Rheingau Mountains. The significance of this? At such northerly latitudes, aspect is vital in giving the grapes perfect southerly exposure and absorbing the all-day sun. You end up with healthy, ripe, clean grapes with intense minerality matched by generous fruitfulness and weight. More generous than Mosel, more chiselled than Rheinhessen. 

Your Weil journey starts with the 2020 Robert Weil Rheingau Riesling Trocken (Trocken=Dry), an excellent snapshot of the house style and vintage characteristics. Comprising a blend of sites around the village and winery, this has attractive floral and appealing aromatics that are classic riesling, loaded with citrus in a quenching, morish style.

Next on the list is the “village” wine from Kiedrich. Stephan Reinhart of Wine Advocate poetically describes, “…the 2020 Kiedricher Riesling Trocken offers a precise and intensely aromatic, finely flinty and coolish bouquet of perfectly ripe stone fruits intertwined with finely stony, floral and herbal notes. Juicy, round and very elegant on the palate, this is an intense and generous, mouth-filling but refined and persistently salty Riesling with ripe, salivating acidity and fine mineral structure. Impressive-and already gorgeous to drink.

Into the single site wines and the lazer-like 2020 Robert Weil Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Trocken, the Turmberg vineyard is entirely owned by Weil and is classified as a Grosse Lage (Grand Cru). A base of phyllite rock (metamorphosed slate) and thin topsoil, the Turmberg displays is the mineral sibling to the Klosterberg. Racy, electric and zinging riesling, super-expressive, thoughtfully structured, and can please now or build more texture and complexity in time. 

The 2020 Kiedrich Klosterberg is from 50plus-year-old vines at higher altitudes, and spends more time on full lees than the Turmberg. With a gorgeous perfume, initial thoughts of a delicate riesling are soon blown away by its generosity, amplitude and heft, remaining intensely mineral, saline and driving. Juicy, textural, long and resonating. Incredible wine.

Last of all, we have some half bottles of 2020 Grafenberg Riesling Auslese, this Grosse Lage is hailed as one of the benchmark sites in the Rheingau. At 8.5% alcohol and refreshingly sweet, it is the heavenly-pure essence of riesling. Richly luscious and magnificently sweet, this category of riesling is one of life's greatest pleasures; treat yourself to a hand grenade of concentrated riesling happiness. Share it with a friend, perhaps even go full German with a matching apple strudel.